« Neat app for pesky windows product key | Main | A java applet that actually works »

low expectations surfing

Rules of thumb for re-learning to surf when thirtysomething:

  • Beginner surfing is almost equivalent to playing in the water... so you might as well just play in the water and enjoy yourself.

  • No one is paying any attention to you. Be as dorky as you want.
  • Getting tired in the ocean is bad. Therefore, get out of the ocean before you're tired.

  • Getting cold in the ocean is to be expected. Don't worry about it.

  • Pretend that everyone else in the water is either a beginner or as old as you or both.

  • Pretend that everyone else in the water is very nice and mellow.

  • Pretend that everyone else in the water is trying to kill you, and stay well out of their way in the breakers.
  • Never turn your back on the sea. (This feels like an old sailing safety tip, but I can't remember where I would have heard it. I've never done any ocean sailing.) The waves in the shallows can still bowl you over, and getting held under in one foot of water really hurts.

  • If you're scared, go to someplace that scares you less. This is the fucking Pacific Ocean we're talking about here, and what will it prove to be a tough guy? The ocean can always kick your ass. get in the water whenever you might possibly have a chance. Even in November. With a beginner's mind, it will always be worthwhile.

If anyone surfs at Linda Mar and sees me playing in the breakers, please don't disillusion me. Except maybe about the "you're trying to kill me" part.

powered by performancing firefox

Reader Comments

There are no comments for this journal entry. To create a new comment, use the form below.

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.

My response is on my own website »
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Some HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>